BY SARA DARLING
There’s more to Romania than Count Drac; it also boasts a glorious, uninterrupted coastline, making it a bit of a hidden gem. Head to the off-the-beaten-track resorts of Constanta and Mamaia and enjoy eight kms of beach which is remarkably uncluttered and well worth the three – four hour transfer from Bucharest airport if you’re planning on soaking up some sun for a while. Alternatively, you can head directly to Constanta if you fly from Luton and don’t mind an early start.
Not quite the silky sand beaches of the Med, but if you’re looking for great value for money, the city of Constanta has culture, whilst Mamaia is an adjoining lively beach resort that sits on a thin strip of land between the Black Sea and Lake Siutghiol and has everything you need for a sun-filled break.
Bordering the beach is a lengthy Belle Époque inspired boardwalk, complete with ice cream sellers, souvenir and swimwear stores, amusement arcades, countless restaurants and bars and a bike lane, should you wish to pootle along on two wheels. This is also the access point to the main nightlife in Mamaia, as some of the best Beach Clubs can be reached via a wooden footpath down the sand. Most places take bank cards and if you need a taxi, it’s worth downloading the Bolt or Uber app, as transport is convenient and cheap!
The promenade is a lovely walk, and is the embarking / disembarking point of the must- do Cable Car which was opened in 2004 gifting visitors with a bird’s eye view of the Tabacariei Lake which offers all kinds of water sports; alternatively you could enjoy the thrills at the Aqua Magic Fun Park which might unfurls below your eyes. Starting from the Hotel Perla you can enjoy an eight minute journey and disembark at the Mamaia Casino or enjoy a round trip.
Design fans will love the “Creion” (pencil), block of flats which was built in 1987 and stands proud amongst its dwarf like neighbours; whilst a tour of the Old Town will also take in the eerie abandoned Casino that stands on the edge of the Black Sea which is now a broken skeleton of what it used to be, with only chandeliers an impressive front porch complete with imposing columns remaining. Constructed at the turn of the 20th century it was an icon of the city before it finally shut in the 1990s after surviving the wars and communist regime. In its heyday it was a ballroom for affluent Romanians and later served as a hospital in World War II, before becoming a restaurant during the post-war communist regime. Ultimately, the building became too costly to maintain and now visitors can just peek through the broken windows to see the baroque décor frozen in time.
Being on the coast, you can charter a yacht, go snorkelling in the sea, or join a boat tour along the Danube Delta where you can visit Gârla Turcească’s old fishery, the Letea Forest, ornate tombs of pirates and princes in the graveyard of Sulina and the famous wild horses. Or perhaps you’re more of an EDM fan and time your visit for one of the festivals – Neversea Festival, one of the largest electronic music festivals in Europe that takes place every July on the beach, where revellers boast about the best sunsets and sunrises as well as the cream of international DJs.
However if you’re not a dance-music fan, there are plentiful Beach Clubs to entertain you until the early hours, including Biutiful by the Sea where you can dine under the stars then dance the night away to a live band playing top tunes, or join in with family-friendly entertainment which takes place in the Square by the new Casino.
Many of the restaurants have large shaded terraces so you can enjoy a freshly prepared, and very leisurely lunch – which means don’t plan anything for the rest of the afternoon, as service can be slow. Alas I didn’t find too many options for vegetarians as the region is famous for pork, duck, lamb and meatballs, plus freshly prepared seafood dishes. Although I did enjoy the authentic Greek platter at Nikos Taverna, and delicious salad in the peaceful surroundings of Harlequins which overlooked the lake; and the Cherhana Pontica restaurant is worth a visit for fish fans as you can choose your own, and the restaurant has direct access to the sand.
You shouldn’t plan on visiting these Black Sea holiday spots for shopping but there are a couple of tired Malls if you really need a retail fix. My main takeaway from the area was the impressive Constanta Art Museum which showcases over 1000 artworks plus regular pop up exhibitions by contemporary creatives.
Additionally, the region’s delicious wine deserves a mention. Constanta is a great destination for wine lovers, as it’s one of the oldest wine-producing regions in Romania with a history dating back over 2,500 years thanks to the unique climate and soil conditions. Enjoy a tour along the famous Murfatlar Wine Route, which takes you through picturesque villages and vineyards to taste some of Romania’s finest wines and learn about the production processes. If you’re short on time, my recommendations would be the Rasova Winery, Viișoara Winery and finishing at Murfatlar Winery for its stunning sunset, live local music and dinner.
FACTBOX
I stayed at the PANORAMIC HOTEL 4 **** 347 Bulevardul Mamaia, Constanta, CT, 900001
Prices start at 790 Lei for a double room with breakfast included, for 2 people (high season)
Cable car
One way/ adult – 30 Lei
Roundtrip – 60 Lei/ adult
Children under 7 – free