Let’s be honest. Brand new phones? Too expensive.
You’re scrolling through Apple’s website, and boom—£899 for a basic iPhone 15. No charger. No case. Just the phone. Samsung? Not far off. It’s like buying a second-hand car at this point.
So people go used. Refurbished. Pre-owned. Whatever you wanna call it. It makes sense. The tech’s good. The savings are real. But the risks? Also real.
You buy the wrong phone and now it’s blacklisted, locked, or worse—completely useless.
So, here’s the deal. If you’re buying a second-hand iPhone or Samsung in the UK, you can get a great phone at a great price. You just have to be smart about it. Here’s how to avoid the scams, the junk, and the heartache.
First: Know What You’re Actually Buying
There’s a difference between used, refurbished, and new open box.
- Used: Sold as-is. Might have scratches, wear, and zero warranty.
- Refurbished: Cleaned up, tested, and often sold with a short warranty. Could be factory or seller-refurb.
- Open Box / Like New: Usually returns. Barely used. These are your safest bet if the price is right.
You need to know which one you’re getting. If the seller doesn’t say? Red flag.
Decide Where You’ll Buy
Some people go to eBay or Facebook Marketplace. Others use retailers. Each one has pros and cons.
Retailers (Back Market, MusicMagpie, Envirofone, CEX)
✅ Safer.
✅ Warranty included (usually 12 months).
✅ Devices checked and graded.
But…
❌ Prices are slightly higher than private sellers.
❌ Limited room to haggle.
Still, for peace of mind? Worth it.
Private Sellers (eBay, Gumtree, Facebook)
✅ Cheaper.
✅ More choice.
✅ You can negotiate.
But…
❌ No warranty.
❌ More scammers.
❌ Risk of buying a stolen or faulty phone.
If you’re going private, you need to know what to check. And double check.
Always Check the IMEI or Serial Number
This is non-negotiable.
The IMEI (for iPhones and Samsungs) or serial number tells you everything. You can check if the phone’s:
- Blacklisted or reported stolen
- Still locked to a network
- Under warranty
- Genuine or fake
Ask the seller for the IMEI. If they won’t give it? Walk away.
Then run it through a checker like:
- CheckMEND.com (paid but thorough)
- IMEI24.com (free)
- Apple’s Warranty Checker for iPhones
- [Samsung Members App] for Samsungs (check model, battery, etc.)
Takes 2 minutes. Saves a world of pain.
Is It iCloud Locked or Samsung Locked?
This one’s huge. If the iPhone is iCloud locked (Find My iPhone still on), it’s basically useless unless you have the original owner’s login. Same with Samsung’s FRP lock (Factory Reset Protection).
Always check:
iPhone:
- Go to Settings → [Your Name] at the top.
- If the Apple ID is still signed in, it’s iCloud locked. Don’t buy it.
Samsung:
- Ask the seller to do a full factory reset. If it asks for a previous Google account afterwards, walk away.
No exceptions here. If it’s still locked, it’s not your phone. And never will be.
Check the Battery Health
New phones are fast. Used ones? Sometimes sluggish. And it’s usually the battery.
iPhone:
Go to Settings → Battery → Battery Health.
Look for “Maximum Capacity.” Anything under 85%? Expect to charge more often. Under 80%? Might need a battery swap soon.
Samsung:
They don’t show it natively like iPhones do.
Use the Samsung Members app → Diagnostics → Battery.
Or dial *#*#4636#*#* on the keypad (works on some models).
If the battery’s knackered, you’re looking at £40–£70 for a replacement.
Do a Full Function Test
You’re not just buying a phone. You’re buying a camera, speaker, GPS, touchscreen, fingerprint reader—the works.
Here’s what to quickly test before handing over money:
- Make a test call
- Try Wi-Fi and mobile data
- Open the camera (front + back)
- Play a YouTube video (test speakers + screen)
- Try fingerprint or face unlock
- Check all buttons (volume, power, home)
- Plug in a charger—watch how it reacts
If the seller’s dodgy about letting you test stuff? Run. You’ll regret it later.
Network Lock: Don’t Miss This
Some phones are locked to a network. That means if it’s locked to EE, it won’t work with your O2 SIM. Simple.
You can check with your SIM card, or ask the seller directly.
If it’s locked, you’ll have to pay to unlock it—usually £10–£25. Takes a few days.
Unlocked = better. Always.
Don’t Pay Cash Unless You Trust Them
PayPal, credit card, bank transfer with a trail—all safer.
Cash is risky. Especially for private sellers. Once the money’s gone, it’s gone.
If you’re buying in person? Meet in a public space. During the day. Not in a car park. Ask to see ID if anything feels off.
Ask the Obvious Questions
Don’t be shy. Ask:
- Why are you selling it?
- How long have you owned it?
- Any issues I should know about?
- Original box and charger included?
- Is the phone paid off? (Avoid phones under contract—can still be blacklisted)
If they dodge or mumble through answers, trust your gut. Bad vibes = bad deal.
Final Thoughts
Buying a used iPhone or Samsung in the UK doesn’t have to be risky. There’s good stuff out there. Great deals, even. But it’s not like walking into Currys and grabbing a shrink-wrapped phone.
You’ve got to check the details. Do your homework. Look out for red flags. And never rush.
Take your time. Ask questions. Trust your gut. And always—always—check that IMEI.
Because the only thing worse than wasting money on a dead phone… is realising you can’t do a thing about it.
Stay sharp. And get a phone that actually works for you.